Our first couple of weeks in Bali were spectacular! From lounging poolside at the Ritz Carlton in Nusa Dua, to exploring and eating our way through Ubud, everything exceeded our expectations.
One thing that was missing, however, was a little physical activity. So we decided to book the sunrise hike up Mount Batur!
Mount Batur (Gunung Batur) is an active volcano on the island of Bali, located at the center of two concentric calderas northwest of Mount Agung.
Note: Mount Agung is the volcano that erupted on Bali in 2017.
Originally, Mt Batur rose about 3,800 m (12,467 feet) above sea level, higher than Mount Agung which sits at 3,142 m (10,308 feet).
Around 23,000 B.C., Mount Batur’s first massive eruption resulted in a 13 km (8 mile) caldera, one of the largest and most impressive in the world. Around, 10,500 B.C., a second major eruption formed a secondary caldera with a diameter of 7.5 km (4.7 miles).
A caldera is a large depression that forms following the evacuation of a magma chamber. When large volumes of magma are erupted over a short period of time, structural support for the crust above the magma chamber is lost. The ground surface then collapses downward into the partially emptied chamber. Although sometimes described as a crater, the feature is actually a type of sinkhole, as it is formed through subsidence and collapse rather than an explosion or impact.
Today’s Mount Batur sits within the inner caldera, along with Lake Batur (Danau Batur). Mount Batur is an active stratovolcano that rises above the surface of Lake Batur, and even above the outer caldera’s rim. Mount Batur’s cone now peaks at 1,717 metres (5,633 feet) above sea level.
While in Bali, we learned that hiking Mount Batur during sunrise is one of its most popular attractions.
So as hikers, we decided we needed to do it!
We booked the sunrise hike directly through our guesthouse. They organized a package including transportation, entrance fees, snack prior to arrival, packed breakfast, and an English-speaking local guide.
We were picked up around 2 a.m., stopping to pick up many other trekkers along the way. Over an hour later, we arrived in Kintamani for an early morning snack of coffee and fried bananas before continuing to the trailhead.
When we reached the parking lot, we were offered flashlights, water, and a packed breakfast (bread and boiled egg). Kevin and I declined the flashlights as we were already prepared with our headlamps. After hiking Mount Kinabalu in Borneo, we were sunrise trekking pros!
It was at the moment we became very aware of our preparation level compared to others. We had our day packs filled with 3L water bladders, hiking boots, and trekking poles. While some had bags, very few had acceptable shoes for hiking, and no one else had trekking poles.
While I felt a little silly with my over preparation, I definitely didn’t want to trade places.
Our hike began from the parking lot around 1,000 metres (3,280 feet) above sea level. Armed with our headlamps, we set out into the darkness to tackle our next mountain summit.
The first part of the track weaves through local villages. Although the trail starts flat, the ground consists of rocky sand. Within minutes, I could tell this hike was going to be far more difficult than I anticipated.
While we were fit hiking in New Zealand and Borneo earlier this year, I hadn’t taken into consideration that we had done nothing but eat and drink over the last month. I mean, the flat section was winding me?!
This was concerning..
Eventually, the trail began to ascend but it didn’t leave the sand behind. I struggled scaling up the mountain, even with my poles. With each step the earth seemed to crumble beneath me. At times it felt like it was one step forward and two steps back.
I kept my distance the best I could from the others in front of me. Trekkers were losing grip in the sand left and right. The last thing I wanted was one of them to tumble on top of me. To be honest, I wasn’t sure if I’d have the energy to get back up if I fell.
It was during this moment my mental battle with hiking arrived. While I absolutely love hiking, sometimes I can’t think of anything I hate more.
Just then, the sky brightened and I could make out the last bit of the trail. Kevin and I both stopped to admire our first view of the sunrise.
With one look, I was instantly reminded why I love hiking. The views, the sense of accomplishment, and the chance to see the world from another angle. How could I hate something that rewards me with this?
We continued hiking above the clouds and quickly reached the platform to join the others for the view.
From Mount Batur’s crater you get an amazing view of the surrounding area. At the base of the inner caldera sits Mount Abang with Lake Batur, Bali’s largest lake, in front of it. Standing tall behind Mount Abang is Bali’s tallest volcano, Mount Agung.
We caught the last bit of the sunrise before preparing for the next part of our adventure. We fuelled up with our provided breakfast and changed our shirts that were soaked in sweat. While the mornings are cool, it doesn’t take long hiking through the sand to heat up your body. We wanted those shirts off as fast as possible, as it magnified the cold at the summit.
With new shirts on and warm fleeces, we relaxed and enjoyed our last minutes at the summit.
Eventually, we met up with our group and made a game plan for the descent. Our two options were to either descend on the same trail we took up, or hike around the crater and take a different trail back down.
We all agreed to hike around the crater. It is a longer less steep trail and promises better views.
Hiking along the ridge provided excellent views into the crater and surrounding calderas. For the first time, we also appreciated the steam vents within the crater, reminding us that we were hiking on an active volcano!
Eventually, our guide directed us to an off-course trail he wanted to take. It looked extremely steep and sandy, however, only for a relatively short distance.
Kevin and I adjusted our poles, while we watched some of the first members of our group tackle the descent. Within minutes, they slipped in the sand. We watched them get up to try again, only to fall back down. At that point, many decided to keep seated and shuffle their way down.
In the mean time, Kevin and I descended with ease. Our poles pierced the ground to keep us steady. Even the couple of times I slipped, I was able to throw my weight against my poles and prevent myself from falling.
We proudly lowered ourselves through the steep section. When we stopped to take a break, everyone seemed interested in our poles. Even the guide. They wanted to know if they assisted going uphill, as well as they did going downhill. Others, rubbing their knees in pain, wanted to know if they helped prevent knee pain. We proudly explained they assisted with all of that.
Man, I love my poles.
As we soaked in the surroundings and took a break, we watched everyone empty their shoes filled with sand. Luckily, as Kevin and I were wearing our hiking boots, we avoided most of the sand getting to our feet.
I was no longer slightly embarrassed at our level of preparation. I was now extremely thankful we had all of our gear with us!
While the group looked at us in judgement when we first arrived, they now all looked at us in envy. Frankly, I couldn’t blame them.
After our break, we continued our descent down the sandy trail. At this point in the morning, the temperature started to rise and we were ready to get off of the mountain.
I suppose this is why I only saw advertisements for sunrise hikes. Nobody in their right mind would want to do this in the middle of the day.
The last part of the descent overlooked Lake Batur, Mount Abang and Mount Agung.
While it was a beautiful view, we kept our focus on the sandy trail. We had made it this far without a major fall and we were not about to start!
Eventually, we made it to the base of the mountain where a temple is being constructed. Outside the temple, a warung was setup selling bottles of water and snacks.
As we both still had water and food we brought with us, we took the time to relax before the final stretch.
After a short break, we continued around the temple where the trail eventually led down a paved path.
Scooters raced up and down the paved path offering rides back to the parking lot for a small fee. While everyone in our group perked up with the offer, we all decided we were more than capable of finishing the last stretch on foot.
Darn.
When we arrived back to the truck, it felt so good to get our boots off and throw on some flip flops. While Mount Batur is not a very challenging hike, it felt a lot more challenging than expected.
While I’d like to blame the sand, I really needed to blame my life choices. In short, it was time to get back to the gym.
On the ride back to Ubud, we stopped into one of Bali’s coffee plantations, Manik Abian Bali Agriculture.
Here, we finally got our opportunity to taste and learn about luwak coffee.
This famous coffee is brewed from beans that have been eaten and pooped out by the luwak mammel. While the bean is in the luwak’s stomach, it apparently undergoes chemical treatment and fermentation creating a smooth, rich, and delicious coffee. It is said to have a taste like no other, and due to its process, is one of the most expensive coffees in the world.
I feel it’s important to mention that the beans are cleaned extensively after being pooped out by the luwak.
The plantation offered multiple different coffees to try for free. While it was extra to try the luwak coffee, Kevin and I decided we needed to try it.
Hey, when in Rome..
Overall, it is okay. We think it is more of a novelty coffee than one with superior quality or flavour. But hey, at least now we can say that we tried it!
Overall, it was a great morning hiking Mount Batur and catching an amazing sunrise in Bali. It is an excellent way to experience a different part of Bali.
While we enjoyed our morning of adventure and activity, we were ready to get back to Ubud for some more relaxation, exploration and world-class food.
Ubud, here we come again!